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Things have been moving VERY slowly on the house, but the kitchen cabinets are supposed to go in tomorrow. Hopefully Hurricane Isaac will not cause any delay. We did pick out most of the lighting for the house and I thought I would share some of those pictures.

These are going on each side of the front doors

The front porch will have two of these ceiling fans

The two smaller baths will have fixtures similar to this, but with three lights and the master bath will have one of these over each vanity.

This is a large 60″ fan that will go in the great room and the master bedroom

The ceiling fixtures throughout the house will be similar to this schoolhouse light, but in oil rubbed bronze with white globes.

This is not the original chandelier we chose, but I decided the other one wasn’t really the right fit. I’m hoping to get one similar to this large pendant from Pottery Barn.

What do you think?


It is finally finished. Here is the Pottery Barn Stratton inspired bed that we just completed.

The only thing left to do on it is make the dog bed for the end. The one you see is Major’s old bed. In hindsight, I would have shortened the overall height. Don’t worry though, I’ll explain exactly where in the tutorial below.


  • 3 – sheets of 1/2″ MDF
  • 3 – 6′ 2x4s
  • 3 – 8′ 2x4s
  • 6 – 6′ 1x4s
  • 1 – 8′ 1x4s
  • Trim

NOTE: I allowed for a 2″ thick headboard to attach to the bed. If you are not using a headboard you may want to shorten the boxes.

  1. Cut MDF for top and bottom into 61″ x 21.5″
  2. Cut and attach 21.5″ lengths of 2×4 to the left, center, and right bottom of the MDF – this will elevate it off the ground the perfect distance to add the 1×4″ facing boards at the end (I know the picture shows two sections but that is only because I was using scrap 2x4s and didn’t want to waste anything. The other two boxes were done using 21.5″ sections)

  3. Cut and attach 14.5″ 2x4s to the MDF base (we used the Kreg jig for pocket holes) to the MDF in six places (front left, back left, front middle, back middle, front right, back right) Our 2x4s were cut to 17.5″ and if I were to do this again I would shorten it by 3″. I suggest you cut them to 14.5″

4.  Attach MDF board to the top (61″ x 21.5″)

    5.  Attach MDF panels to the inside walls of the compartments (21.5″ x 14.5″)

    6. Add 1×4 facing boards horizontally to top and bottom first and then vertically to left, middle, and right

    7. Add trim pieces (I used cove molding because it is the same width as the 1×4)

    8. Add beadboard for backing.

    I chose not to finish the ends on the two benches that would be used for the left and right side of the bed. I wanted the box at the foot of the bed to fit snugly up against them. However, the ends on the box for the foot had to be finished.

    Footboard box notes:

    • Make sure to account for added width of the boards you will be using on the ends. I had to cut the MDF down to 59.5″
    • Remember that whatever you add to the back will push the box away from the other two – I added trim pieces inside on the top and bottom and then used liquid nails to glue the beadboard to it. The beadboard was then flush with the edge of the MDF

    It really wasn’t hard to make. I apologize for not taking better pictures. Just remember to think through the concept before you make your cuts – especially on the footboard box.

    We attached the headboard using large L brackets

    If you are wondering what that stuff on the vent is, yes, it is duct tape. The bed was going to cover 1/2 of the vent and I didn't want to heat and cool under the bed. It is working like a charm.

    Bed with two boxes in place

    We didn’t want to use a boxspring with our mattress so we opted to add slats instead. I attached a 2×2″ to the back of the boxes for the slats to rest on. The slats are made from the left over MDF.

    The baskets are the the large Wicker Pole Handle Storage Baskets from the Basket Lady. The paint is Pottery Barn Decorators White from Benjamin Moore.

    The bookcase is complete! I still can’t believe it took so long for the oil paint to dry. This was the inspiration.

    Pottery Barn Thomas Wide Bookcase

    Here is our bookcase:

    Hays bookcase

    Oh wow. Doesn’t posting your own pictures make you realize what you could have done differently? I’m thinking we should add a trim piece to the bottom to smooth out the lines a little.  In any case, it is so sturdy and needed. This was our reading nook before. I can’t believe we have been living with our books like that for over two months!

    Reading nook before bookcase

    We are definitely going to have to build more because we still have a lot of books on the floor. The plan is to build two more. One the same size which will go to the right of this one and another shorter to fit on the wall with the window. We will have a square open spot in the corner if we do that so I plan on making a filler table so the tops are consistent around the wall.

    Here are the plans if you want to build some for yourself.

    Although I’m building pedestal tables, I still love the original from Pottery Barn.

    Pottery Barn Rustic Pedestal Accent Table $299

    So, imagine my excitement when I saw this one:

    Grandinroad Pedestal Table

    Available in antique white at GrandinRoad for $149 each. Act fast though, these are on clearance and probably won’t last long.

    I love Pottery Barn. I don’t think there is anything in their catalog or on their website that I wouldn’t love to have in our home. However, I don’t love the prices. So, when I saw these wooden buoys I thought to myself, “I can make those” and I did.

    Pottery Barn Buoys

    Well, only two so far. I haven’t been able to put my hands on a non-treated 4×4. Home Depot doesn’t sell them and I haven’t checked Lowes or Woodcraft yet. Does anyone know if it would be okay to use a treated 4×4? I am hesitant since they will be inside. I forgot to take “before” pictures of the wood, but I bought two scrap pieces of poplar 3x3s for $0.50 each at HD. Next I cut the tops with a 45º angle with the miter saw. (I’m hoping to borrow a miter saw that cuts 60º angles for the last one)

    I painted them with regular acrylic pain, using painters tape to ensure straight lines.

    Numbers printed

    I printed the numbers off of the computer and traced over the paper with Sharpie. The marker bled through enough to see the outline on the blocks. Painted on the numbers and added some jute for the rope. Here they are (with a total cost of less than $5.50 for the pair)…

    Did I mention that the best thing about making these is being able to pick numbers that have significance to you? The 417 stands for April 17, the day Matt & I met. 828 is for August 28, the day we got engaged. The last one will be 1231, December 31 is the day we were married. For those of you that don’t know us personally, all of those were in the same year. Yep, less than one year after meeting we were married (and bought a house). There is a lot of truth to the saying, “when you know, you know.” I fall more in love with him every single day.

    Linking up at:

    A Soft Place to Land, Room to Inspire, The Virginia House

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